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Recovery of PDMS

FunToDo PDMS Repair Kit

Instructions for replacing the silicone layer in the bath.

⦁ Are there any ways to restore the silicone coating of the trays on printers like FormLabs, B9 and similar?

Yes, FunToDo invented the PDMS Repair Kit to repair the silicone coating on the bottom of a tray/tub.

⦁ How to replace PDMS silicone?

Carefully remove the old, cloudy coating from the bottom of the bath.
Mix silicone and activator in the right proportion (for 50 ml of the finished mixture, 46 ml of silicone and 4 ml of activator are used).
Pour into a tray and leave to harden for 36-48 hours.

⦁ How many times will this set last?

On average, enough for 3-4 applications. Depends on your pallet size and layer thickness.

⦁ Can I use silicone on a platinum catalyst?

Yes. Our Industrial Blend, Snow White and Dentifix-3D resins are non-inhibiting with additive curing silicone rubber (platinum catalyst). For best results, post curing should be done with a wide spectrum of light waves under a powerful lamp, or strong UV light.

⦁ Can I use silicone on a tin catalyst?

Yes. Our resins do not inhibit condensation curing silicone rubber (tin catalyst).

If you have questions about recovery of PDMS, please send a question to our specialists at funtodo.eu@gmail.com.

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Post-processing of Snow White resin

Tips and hacks post-processing of Snow White resin.

Snow White resin has a greenish tint, as the model immediately after printing. To get a pure white color of the model, it needs to be illuminated with a wide spectrum of light – under a fluorescent / LED lamp with a temperature of 6500K, or simply in the sun for about 30-40 minutes, turning it over.

So why is Snow White green but not white?

It’s simple – photoinitiators give a greenish tint, and to get a white color, all of them must react. Photoinitiator – a component that, by absorbing light, starts the curing reaction of the material.

To get a model of pure white color, after washing and removing supports, you need to illuminate the model with a wide spectrum of light – fluorescent lamp, sun, etc.

Snow White from FTD new generation. With subsequent illumination, the part turns white. An experiment was set up – a half of the strip was protected from further illumination with foil. Then – 20 minutes per side with a 40 W 6500K LED spotlight.

If you expose the model only in the UV camera, the greenish tint will remain. The light wavelength of the UV camera is about 380-410 nm, this is a narrow range of light, which is not enough for all photoinitiators to react.

Post-processing of Snow White resin foto

In order for the model to become pure white, it must be kept under the sun or under a fluorescent lamp for about 30-40 minutes, turning it over.

After printing, the model must be washed immediately. Ethyl alcohol (ethanol) diluted to 60% or isopropyl alcohol is great. Rinse the model in previously used alcohol to remove most of the excess resin. Next rinse clean. To achieve maximum results, place the model in the USM (ultrasonic cleaner) for 2-3 minutes.

Drying and removal of supports

After washing, the model must be dried from alcohol. You can dry it with a hairdryer without heating, with compressed air, or leave it on a napkin for half an hour.

Now support should be removed. At this stage, this will be the easiest to do. If the supports are removed after the model has been exposed to the finish in a UV camera or in the sun, the supports will become stiffer and it will be more difficult to remove them.

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What is FunToDo 3D resin?

In this post we want to answer your question “What is FunToDo 3D resin? Tell in detail about the products and post-processing of models.

About

  • What is FunToDo material?

FunToDo 3D resin is one of the best 3D resins on the professional 3D printing market. This material differs from competitors in high printing accuracy and polymerization speed, the material is durable and safe for health.

  • Is it suitable for my printer?

The resin is compatible with almost all DLP and SLA 3D printers on the market. The combination of an affordable price, as well as a short exposure time, allows you to significantly save your funds, reduce the cost of 3D printing and the lead time.

  • Where FunToDo resin is produced?

The Netherlands

Shelf life

  • What is the period and storage conditions so that the material does not deteriorate?

There are no restrictions on storage in a box (in a place protected from light). The resin can be stored for quite a long time – we tested the material from three years ago, the print quality and other properties have not changed.

  • What should be done before printing, after a long period of storage?

The main thing is to shake the container with the polymer well before use, for 5-8 minutes. It is especially important to mix well opaque resins with a high concentration of coloring pigment.

Washing and post-processing of 3D resin products

Note! The final surface quality and mechanical characteristics of the model are 80% dependent on how well you do the processing of the model after printing.

  1. Washing

After printing, the model must be washed immediately. Ethyl alcohol (ethanol) or isopropyl alcohol (isopropanol) diluted to 40-60% approach perfectly. It is possible to use a universal cleaning solution, such as TEK1960. Alcohol must be diluted!

First rinse the model in previously used alcohol to wash off most of the excess resin. Next, use a toothbrush to clean the remaining material from the small parts.

To achieve maximum results, place the model in the ultrasonic cleaner for 2-3 minutes at a power of 50 watts.

If the model is left in ultrasonic cleaner for more than 5 minutes, the polymer may be partially washed out between the layers, since there it has not completely hardened yet – a barely noticeable mesh may appear on the surface of the model.

Alcohol residues can be washed off with demineralized water.

  • Drying

After washing, the model must be dried well. Ideally, with compressed air, a powerful hair dryer without heating is suitable at home. Pay special attention to removing excess photopolymer from hard-to-reach places, such as small diameter holes.

  • Removing supports

Carefully remove supports. A scalpel, clerical knife or scissors is perfect. If necessary, additionally rinse again in ultrasonic cleaner (1 min), then dry again with compressed air. Now the model is ready for final fixing.

Before final fixing

This step is optional. Place the model in a dry, dark place at room temperature for several hours so that the material “rests”. If an incubator is available, 30 minutes is sufficient at 38°C.

  • Post-polymerization

In order the model to be solid and durable, and the geometry does not change over time, the model must be kept in the sun or in a UV chamber. To do this, put the model in the sun for 2-4 hours, turning every 30-60 minutes. If you are using a UV chamber, 20-30 minutes will be sufficient. Depending on the size of the model and the capacity of the curing chamber, more time may be required.

UV chamber

3D resin staining

How to use a set of pigments, how to mix and how much to add to get the desired color.

A set of coloring pigments FunToDo Pigment Set which is used to create almost any shade of color by adding to transparent, natural, and white FunToDo resins

The set consists of four containers of 20 ml each, with black, yellow, blue, and red pigments. For example, we use only 4 ml of red coloring pigment to make 1 kg of rich red resin.

The set will be enough to dye 25 kg of material in a rich, opaque color, and if you add a small amount to make the color appear, then it will be enough for 50+ kg of resin.

Conclusion

With pigments, you can get absolutely any color of FunToDo resin.

Included:

Pigment FunToDo, red (20 ml)

Pigment FunToDo, blue (20 ml)

Pigment FunToDo, yellow (20 ml)

Pigment FunToDo, black (20 ml)

3d resin bridge
 coloring pigments FunToDo

3D resin burning

Model preparation.

  • Burn out resin the same way as wax?

Casting from 3D resin and wax are two different processes. The photopolymer is notmelted but burned out. Accordingly, the process and cycle of burning is completely different.

  • How to prepare a model for burning?

After construction, the model must be immediately washed in an alcohol solution of 40-60% ethanol in ultrasonic cleaning for no more than 5 minutes.

Dry and remove liquid resin from hard-to-reach areas before drying and photo-curing.

Remove supports and, if necessary, rinse again in ultrasonic cleaning (1 min), then dry again.

Place the models in an incubator (38°C) for 30 minutes or in a dry, dark place at room temperature for 6 hours.

Place the models in a UV chamber or in the sun until fully cured (about 2-4 hours depending on size, turn every 20-30 minutes).

Сhoice of molding mass

  • What forming mass to choose for burning resin?

For casting precise models, for example, jewelry, Plasticast molds are used. For regular Satincast products, as a more affordable option. Molds Goldstar KB may not be suitable, because when casting 750 gold, the products are rough.

  • Molding mass cracked in the flask, what should I do?

Try to burn the resin slowly using an 8-hour schedule.

If you use an accelerated burnout mode (2 hours), then you should use an expensive molding sand that has an expansion when heated by more than 1% so that it does not crack in the flask.

The Burnout process

1. Mix the mold according to the instructions. Standard: 38 ml of water (24-26 degrees) per 100 g of powder.

2. Leave for 2-4 hours before placing the flask in the oven (depending on the size of the model).

3. Place the flask in an oven preheated to 160°C for 2 hours.

4. Heat the oven to 370°C (120°C per hour) and hold at this temperature for 1 hour. This step burns out the polymer. If the part is large, you need to increase the time.

5. Heat to 730°C (120°C per hour) and hold at this temperature for 2 hours.

6. Cool to pouring temperature, hold for 1 hour.

7. Before casting the model, ventilate the flask.

schedule

Conclusion

The FunToDo burnout resin gives amazing detail when printed on a 3D printer. Following this instruction, the resin is burned out completely, no ash remains.

The calcination schedule is better to choose a full-fledged, long one (on the Slow Burnout chart). In the accelerated burnout mode (on the Flash Burnout graph), you should use an expensive molding sand that has an expansion when heated by more than 1% so that it does not crack in the flask.

3d resin frog
3d resin dragons
What is FunToDo 3D resin

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What is 3D Printer Resin?

Resin printing lets engineers, designers, artists and hobbyists 3D print high-quality objects that they cannot get from filament-based fused deposition modeling (FDM) printers. The process beams ultraviolet (UV) light into a tank of liquid, resin, triggering a reaction that solidifies the resin into a hard plastic. This photo-polymerization happens in a small volume thanks to the narrow ultraviolet beams. As a result, the final object can have much finer details and smoother surfaces than those produced by FDM printers.